Sophisticated but not stuffy, this upscale suburban spot puts the fun back in fine dining.. The Scene
If Gabriel Viti ever gives up his day job as chef/owner of Gabriel's, he could probably get into politics. Resplendent in his chef whites and toque, Viti works the room like a pro, greeting even first-time customers like old friends. The mood is relaxed, and so is the space: cheerful, intimate, and elegant, with red- and green-striped booths accented with mahogany and etched glass.

The Food
You don't need to be a gourmand to appreciate Gabriel's French-Italian fare, which forgoes fussy ingredients in favor of familiar, comforting flavors and presentations. Daubed with zesty grainy mustard, cold steamed artichoke leaves fan out on a plate--delicate, delicious finger food. One excellent pasta pairs twists of gemelli with a fresh, flavorful mix of green beans, sun-dried tomato, pine nuts and pesto. A dark, savory thyme sauce brings out the full, slightly gamy flavor of roasted rack of lamb; in contrast, roasted Alaskan halibut is light and sweet, accented with a medley of tomato and crunchy fennel in a green and black olive vinaigrette.…

Mixed reviews. While the service was exceptional (our water glasses were always full, as was our wine glasses), the food didn't live up to expectations. Yes, it was very good food, but not outstanding. Some of the pairings were a little awkward. While the wine list was vast - one of the best I've seen, the markups were absolutely ridiculous. I'm talking 200-300% HIGHER than retail. I'm all for a restaurant making money on their wines, but c'mon.…