Merriman's Restaurant

11/25/05

Unpretentious restaurant in the heart of Waimea ranch country marks the recognized birthplace of Hawaiian regional cuisine.

by Randi Schmelzer

The Scene
In 1988, Chef Peter Merriman opened what has become the Big Island's most renowned dinner destination. The low-volume dining room is designed in a French country-meets-Hawaiian art-deco style, with the ambience of a Midwestern steakhouse. Walls are covered with cattle-country knickknacks and black-and-white photos of local growers and ranchers.

The Food
The restaurant relies on area food producers for the majority of its menu selections, based directly on the harvest of local fishermen, ranchers and family farmers. The signature dish is wok-charred ahi tuna, seared on the outside and raw inside, served with wasabi dipping sauce and pickled ginger. Juicy free-range lamb chops come from Waimea, just up the mountain, as does warm, tangy goat cheese baked in macadamia phyllo dough. Weather permitting, even starter salads are made of mostly organic local lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Desserts change frequently, but usually include a Waimea strawberry dish, macadamia cookies and 100-percent Kona-grown coffee.

• Pros: Locally produced ingredientsArtful presentationVegetarian entrees
• Cons: High hype, high pricesDull dessert menuUneven service