Cafe Central

Elisa Kronish

Citysearch

The Scene
Located along bustling Central Avenue, Carlos and Debbie Nieto's French diner sees mostly walk-ins who meet spouses after work or stop in before a movie at the nearby cheap-seat theater. On weekdays, patrons range in age from gray-haired couples to energetic kids, the latter cheerfully welcomed with their own menu. Butter-yellow walls are covered with French posters, and two large mirrors make the small space seem much larger.

The Food
The menu highlights made-from-scratch bistro favorites, like a starter of pate slices accompanied by sweet onion confit, and flaky-fresh crab cakes. Entree presentations are understated and pretty, and timing is nearly perfect. The menu changes often, but popular dishes include organic skirt steak and pork tenderloin with grainy mustard sauce. Signature lamb shank falls off the bone, accompanied by Asiago cheese mashed potatoes and rosemary sauce. For dessert, try tarte tatin, a French take on baked apple pie.